![]() ![]() The worst glare occurs with direct flash, but it can happen with bounced flash too, as the examples below will show. The lenses are quite reflective, producing a lot of glare in many lighting situations. The 45 degree bounce is best for photographing subjects relatively far from the camera, because the light will reach farther than it will when pointed straight up.Įyeglasses are a pain to photograph. This gave the best looking background, but the light on the face is bad, with the eyes way too dark. This one was done with the flash pointed to the ceiling at a 45 degree angle. This setup is best for most portraits, though it can produce glare on eyeglasses. ![]() The fill card pushes a small amount of light directly at his face to fill in the shadows and put a little catchlight in each eye. This one was done with the flash pointed straight up, 90 degree angle, with the fill card pulled up. The light is much more natural than the direct flash version, but his eyes are shadowed a bit much. I did not use the fill card for this one. This one was done with the flash pointed straight up, 90 degree angle. The shortcomings of this type of light are obvious when it is compared to the photos done with the flash bounced off the ceiling. Just for reference, this is the photograph of my son done with direct flash. Let's look at some examples done with the flash at different bounce angles. This gives the most pleasing light in most cases, though there are exceptions. Most of the time, I use the flash pointed straight up at the ceiling, with the bounce card deployed. Backgrounds will be lighter and more natural looking because the diffused light that comes down from the ceiling will spread out and light the background as well as the subject, with less falloff in brightness than with direct flash.The subject will not cast ugly shadows on the background, unless the subject is very close to the background.In the real world, light rarely comes from directly in front of us! The sun, the sky, and the lights on the ceiling indoors all illuminate our world from above. As I noted on the first page of this tutorial, we are accustomed to light coming from above us. The sun is a small point of light, while the clouds on an overcast day diffuse the light, turning the sky into a giant light source. ![]() This is why outdoor light on sunny days is harsh and light on overcast days is soft. Large light sources produce soft light, and bouncing light off the ceiling makes the ceiling act like a large light source. Small light sources produce harsh light, and the flash head is a very small light source. The ceiling acts like a large diffuser, making the light look soft and natural. From left to right: Direct flash, 45 degree bounce, 90 degree bounce, and 90 degree bounce with fill card deployed.īouncing the flash off the ceiling does several things to the light that improve the look of the image: On-Camera flash set at different bounce angles. This is called the Fill Card, and we'll show how it works in a bit. Some have a small white plastic card that can be pulled out when the flash is pointed straight up. Usually, the angle at which the flash head is pointed can be varied, from 0 degrees (pointing straight at the subject) up to 90 degrees (pointing directly up at the ceiling). Most accessory flash units are made with a flash head that can be tilted upward. The solution is to bounce the light off the ceiling! Red-Eye and glare on glasses are common problems with direct flash. Backgrounds go too dark, and often have shadows cast upon them from the subject. On the first page of this tutorial, we saw that pointing the flash directly at your subject produces harsh, flat-looking, ugly light. ![]()
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